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9/05/2011

TRIESTE. MIRROR OF THE SOUL

Umberto Saba has dedicated to Trieste, the city where he’s born, a collection of poems (“Trieste and a woman”) describing his attachment to the place that can become the expression and projection of state of mind of the poet and his people.

Grand Canal
 This is a province of the ambiguous character. A bit prickly, with its streets that climb high in the area and the discreet people.But Trieste is also a port city, with its canals and squares, open, uninhibited and disenchanted.

It was Free Port, the most important of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a meeting place for merchants and cultures, 
but also a border town, a mixture of three populations: 
Italian, German and Slavic. 


All this we find walking down the street, observing the inhabitants and the variety of architectural styles around us, marked by the rigor and elegance typical of Maria Theresa and Joseph II of Austria, Trieste rulers who transformed the city into a cosmopolitan port.



On the trail of Ulysses and Zeno…..

Saba loved the city through the poetry, he related the spirit and the mild beauty of the folk and relieved, in 1919, the Antiquarian Bookshop on Via San Nicolò 30.

This  place still exists and it is managed by Saba’s old partner's son, Charles Cerne.

We find the poet walking and reflecting on the way to his library, in the bronze statue that his fellow citizen wanted, to feel like Saba is always composing his verses among them.

Umberto Saba

But Trieste has also attracted foreign and famous artists like James Joyce.

The Irish emigrant came here in 1904 with his girlfriend Nora, looking for a house and a job. And the city welcomed them.


The home of the writer was on the first floor of Via San Nicolò 30 (right up on Saba’s bookshop), and his first job was as  English professor at the "Berlitz School”. 

So, among classroom courses, conferences and lectures at popular university, he was able to mantain his bohemian lifestyle, finding time for writing his extraordinary operas.

In summer, Joyce used to attend the beach named “Fontana” (today is the “Alla Lanterna”) at the quay Fratelli Bandiera, the only one which maintains the traditional separation of the beach between men and women. 

Old Palace of Governement

Another place loved by Joyce was the confectionery Pirona that, in Largo Barriera Vecchia, still churns  typical sweets and cakes appreciated by the artist: the “strudel”, “sacher torte”, the “palacinke”,  the “presnitz” (invented in honor of Princess Sissi, who lived in Trieste), the “chifeletti”, the “fave”, “frittole” and the “pinza”. 
The showcases are always full, like all the pastry shops and  
old coffee shops in this city. 


Remarcable cafeterias are the “Tommaseo”, the “Stella Polare”, the "Caffè degli specchi” and the “Tergeste” which once used to entertain famous people who made History of Italy.
Caffè Tommaseo

In 1907 Joyce became english tutor of Ettore Schmitz (the Italian writer Italo Svevo).

He regularly used going to Villa Veneziani, the residence of his student,  situated in Servola, traveling on tram number 2,  passing by a route that still exists.


old tram in Trieste way

Between the two artists was born a working relationship of literary men, 
made of high esteem for eachother.
In the background of their lives, but also into their novels, we see,  reading inside the lines, 
the city of Trieste, animated by people and places actually encountered by both of the writers, transfigured under false names in the pages of their famous stories.

James Joyce
Going ‘round in the downtown we could also meet Svevo and Joyce: the two statues are located respectively in Hortis square, opposite the City Library, 
(usually attended by the Italian writer) and 
in front of the bridge over the Grand Canal, 
which Joyce usually crossed going back home to his beloved Nora.


Italo Svevo

…Until today
Here stands the ancient custom of "osmize” (called Osem, eight in Slovenian).

An edict of the Empress of Austria allowed the farmers directly selling products for a period of 8 days.

You can try tasty cold cuts, wines, cheeses and traditional dishes.

The list of osmize is published on a newspaper of Trieste, the slavic "Primorski Dnevnik".

Farmers use  to expose some branches on public routes of country street to mark “osmize” presence in the surroundings.

Osmize indication
This is also a city full of places to see.

 In the upper area is the cathedral and the castle of San Giusto, a center of cultural and artistic events.


St Giusto chatedral and Roman forum

The castle and park of Miramare can be seen on a promontory overlooking the sea, which is also a marine reserve. The fairytale castle is white, the source of the old legend on the sad story of the royal couple of Maximilian and Carlotta, who never lived there together.

Miramare Castle
Piazza Unità d'Italia, a great place that faces the sea, is the lounge of the city.
Here we can see symbols of the history of  this city: the Palazzo Comunale (the one with the clock tower), the Lyoid Triestino (home of the oldest Italian ferry company) and the Government Palace (Palazzo del Governo).

Piazza Unità d'Italia
The Cave (foibe) of Basovizza reminds us of the madness of ethnic cleansing unleashed at the end of World War II.

The monument shows the hollow where men and women bodies were thrown; hundreds of refugees who fled Yugoslavia during the violent movements of liberation of the country.



The rice mill in San Sabba (“Risiera di San Sabba”) is a reminder of the horrors of war.

From factory for the production of rice was converted by the Nazis in a prison camp and crematorium.

 San Sabba rice mills

In town there is a unique tram: the tram of “Opicina”.
It follows a scenic route that starts from Piazza Oberdan and cross a road with a gradient of 26%. There an auxiliary vehicle helps the tram which rests on it to get the final stop.

Opicina tram

But this ancient city today has also become a famous center for science and education. We can visit the AREA Science Park that includes a marine biology lab, the National Institute of Oceanography and Experimental Geophysics, the Astronomical Observatory and many other institutional science and technology laboratories that intend to exploit their studies as world knowledge.
The Scientific Imagination Science Centre is an interactive museum that allows guests to "touch" science and progress. www.immaginarioscientifico.it

Those who are interested in nature can discover the ancient caves and the hills around the city, 
in that amazing mountains named “Carso”. 


Sea lovers should not miss the “Barcolana”, 
historic sail race that, every year, 
crowds the Gulf of Trieste of colorful boats 
from all over the world.


STRUCOLO DI MELE
Apple strudel


Ingredients:
1 sachet of baking powder
1 sachet of vanilla sugar
1 sachet of powdered sugar
6 / 7 apple
1 box of raisins
50 gr. flour
100 gr. sugar
lemon peel
I50 gr. pine nuts
3 eggs (yolks)
100 gr. 2 tablespoons cold butter or oil
8 tablespoons milk
1 pinch of salt.


Preparation:
Peel apples and cut into small pieces.
Meanwhile, put flour, eggs, salt and oil or butter on the table.
Add a bit of water and make a dough.
Roll out the dough with a rolling pin, until it becomes thin.
On the paste distribute the bread crumbs, apples, sugar,
lemon peel, raisins and pine nuts.
Roll the strudel and place on greased baking mold.
Brush with egg or butter and place in oven heated to about 220 ° C for about 40 minutes.
Before serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar.


 https://amorbis.infusionsoft.com/go/tin/conniermn/



Strudel



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